This post is intended for those interested in my Saberguard model, either the print files (.STL file format) or have me print one out. If you are interested in either please contact me via the form at the bottom of this post or message me on my Facebook Page, I will get back to you with prices and time-frame.
**My 3D Files are for personal use ONLY, no distribution, please. **
This image is just a quick rundown on how I put the Saberguard together. If you have any specific questions please feel free to contact me here or my Facebook Page.
3D Print settings (what worked for me on our daVinci Pro 1.0)
Standard/default print settings works fine but I was really liking the quality of these finer settings below. Just don’t use a raft at all if you are using ABS slush.
My ‘finer’ print settings:
- Nozzle 1: 210
- Heatbed: 90
- Material: Black ABS
- Layer Height: 0.15mm
- Shell Thickness: Normal = 2 , Top & Bottom = 3
- Infill: 15% Honeycomb
- Raft: No, Supports: Yes (standard)
- Speeds: 25-30mm/s (20 for curves)
- Adhesive: Blue tape + ABS slush scribbled on the tape in the general print area.
Also tried out an endcap in PLA on standard settings (so that is currently what is in my printer at the time of this post). Still came out pretty nice! I plan on testing it’s weakness to heat by leaving it in a car one day as I hear is more fragile (especially to heat) but otherwise it feels pretty sturdy.
Finishing! (most of what I did to clean it up, prep and paint)
- Clean up the print if it has some rough edges, etc. Then glue the bottom endcap to the blade.
- A fresh print of the top endcap does not have a notch cut out as in my images. I cut out the hole so my hilt was not permanently trapped in the saberguard. If you are going to keep it on your saber permanently then don’t worry about cutting out a notch.
- I HIGHLY recommend using XTC-3D (on ABS) for helping to smooth out the entire print. This can be a slow process and must be done in stages. Use really thin coats or you may see globs or ‘pools’ of the stuff. The flat sides may not need much, the seams may need more or just fill em with bondo/putty. Where you can see the layers of the print may need a little more like on the side of ‘blade’. Go slow and gradual with the curved edges as XTC-3D loves gravity… and dripping.
- Sand it up to smooth it to your preference. If you notice any depressions or things missed there’s always bondo & putty. I used a lot on my saberguard, primarily because we had an adhesion issue with our printer and our prints were curling up, but then we discovered the magic of ABS slush. =)
- Prime it with your preference of base paint. I used Army Painter Platemail Primer, which also meant I did not need to actually paint it with something else. I liked the slight metallic of the paint. Others may prefer silver or something similar.
- I added fun foam (the thin stuff) to the inside of the endcaps to aid with the saber fitting snugly. I will also put some in the notch I cut out as it is wearing down a bit whenever I dismantle my saber for storage or other uses.
- I also discovered that the top and bottom detail (the ring with the 2 supports) of the endcaps is NOT meant for pressure at all. So please be aware of this. I’ve added clear acrylic peg supports (cut from a 1/4″ dowel we had) to support it so now it’s supported on 4 sides.
- If you are permanently keeping your hilt in the saberguard then put it together and glue the top one to the blade.
- You can add the black line & symbol details as you please. I’m working on a decal design for that to make it easier than drawing everything.
Any questions at all please contact me.
You can find my 3D models on Etsy. If you are interested in an unfinished kit stay tuned and keep an eye out on my shop. These will be extremely limited as the print job is about 30 hours each.